Welcome to my “Geek Chic Eyewear” series for finding the perfect pair of glasses. The series is designed to offer educational insight from a technology standpoint. Even if you don’t currently require vision correction, it’s likely that you will as you reach into your 40s. Yes, those “dreaded” reading glasses that “old” people need. Or maybe you just want quality non-prescription sunglasses. Either way, I’ve got you covered! Â
Although the topic of eyewear diverges from my usual smart home and other tech content, it’s fascinating to see how much technology is involved in eyewear, particularly prescription glasses. The technology behind frames, lenses, tints, coatings, and optometry equipment is surprisingly advanced, and the variety of options can be overwhelming. Understanding these choices can be very enlightening when going to your next pair of glasses.
The aim of this series is to equip you with the knowledge needed to make informed decisions when selecting an eye care professional and choosing the right glasses for you. This is especially pertinent for those in their 40s or older, as natural changes in vision (presbyopia) often occur during this time and result in needing reading glasses.
My own experiences with optometry have been mixed, leading me to delve deeply into eyewear research. It’s a misconception that the same prescription will provide the same quality of vision across all glasses. The technology in the combination of frames and lenses significantly impacts your vision. I’ve learned some costly lessons along the way, and I hope this series helps you avoid similar mistakes.
Disclaimer: I’m not a medical professional, optometrist, or optician. This post is not sponsored by any company, and there are no affiliate links. I have no financial interest or ties to any content I’ve linked to. Always consult a qualified eye care professional to help you find your perfect pair of glasses.Â
I am a happy customer of the Spectacle Factory (Preston, UK) and Laguna Eyes (Laguna Beach, CA), but received no discount or special treatment from either office. This series is about sharing my personal experience and research not promoting any one brand, person, or eyecare office.Â
Series Overview
This series of posts will cover a wide range of topics, covering various aspect how to get your perfect pair of glasses. These posts are focused on the tech angle of eyewear, and are not about fashion or what’s on trend for 2025. I’m the last person someone should take fashion advice from!
Topics in this series include:
Part 1: Comprehensive Guide to Frame Selection (This Post)
- The Elephant in the Optometrist’s Office
- Frame Materials
- Cellulose Acetate
- Titanium
- Frame Brands – Quiet Luxury vs. Trash
- The Epitome of Trash
- Quiet Luxury – Wisely Spending your Money
- Best Acetate Frames in the World
- Best Titanium Frames in the World
Part 2: Understanding Lens Materials and Designs
- Lens Choices Galore – An Overview
- Two Key Lens Properties Explained
- Abbe Value and Refractive Index
- Lens Materials
- Lens Design
- Zeiss ClearView Lenses
- Zeiss SmartLife Lenses
- Zeiss DriveSafe Lenses
- Progressive (Varifocal) Lenses
- Reading vs. Computer Glasses
- Lens Tints Galore
- Sunglasses: PhotoFusion X vs. AdaptiveSun
- Lens Coatings
- Blue Light – To Block or Not to Block?
Part 3: Optometry Tools, Eye Health and Insurance
- Zeiss Optometry Equipment
- i.Profiler Plus
- VISUPHOR 500
- VISUFIT 1000
- i.Terminal 2
- Eye Health
- LifeMeter
- Eye Supplements
- optomap
- Visionix Optovue Solix
- Managing Vision Expenses
- Insurance Tips
- HSA/FSA Savings
- Medical Accommodation for Computer Glasses
- Finding a Zeiss Specialist
- Questions to ask your Optometry Office
- Caring for your Eyewear
- My Optometrist Saga
- My Eyewear Collection
- Buying Reykjavik Eyes Frames in the US
- How to Read Your Prescription
Over the last couple of years a great source of eyewear information has been Robert over at the Spectacle Factory YouTube channel. Robert is a highly skilled Optician in the UK, and is a fountain of knowledge when it comes to eyewear brands, lens design, styling, and much more. He is very passionate about helping people find the perfect pair of glasses, and that shows through in all his videos.Â
In September 2023 I made a personal visit to the Spectacle Factory in the UK and got two pairs of custom sunglasses. Yes, I traveled from California to the UK for custom eyewear. More on that later!Â
The Elephant in the Optometrist's Office
Before we explore the technology behind eyewear, it’s important to touch on some of the industry’s lesser-known deep dark secrets. Understanding these can help you make informed decisions about where to spend your money and recognize any potential biases or limited brand options presented by your local eye care professional.
In 2013, the news program 60 Minutes aired a segment titled “Do you know who makes your glasses?” I recommend setting aside 13 minutes to watch it on YouTube. The situation in 2024 has only worsened. This segment sheds light on why many eyewear brands remain expensive and often prioritize profit margins over quality.
The 60 Minutes segment revealed that EssilorLuxottica, an Italian company, has acquired over 150 eyewear brands (including Ray-Ban, Oakley, Armani, Chanel, D&G, Prada), direct-to-consumer retailers (such as LensCrafters, Pearle Vision, Sunglass hut), and lens brands like Varilux, Crizal, and Transitions. EssilorLuxottica pushes up prices, significantly reduces brand product quality, and is motivated by high profit margins. The LA Times had a column in 2019 titled “How badly are we being ripped off on eyewear? Former industry execs tell all.” It’s a good read and very open opening.Â
Avoiding EssilorLuxottica is difficult because many people, unaware of the industry’s dark dirty secret, gravitate towards their brands (like Oakley, Ray-Ban, Prada, D&G), mistakenly believing they are purchasing quality products. This is NOT the case. Sorry to burst your fashion bubble. You just threw good money down the fashion drain.Â
EssilorLuxottica is all about selling a logo to customers who want to conspicuously consume eyewear. These people care mostly about a big flashy logo and try to impress others with their money. This screams “Look at me, I dropped big $$ on D&G sunglasses”, when the joke is on them as the quality can be near trash. Eyewear is for YOU to enjoy, see well through, and know you spent your money on quality frames and lenses that will last you many years. It’s NOT about flashing your money to impress others.Â
Personally, I choose not to support this monopoly. Therefore, this series highlights alternative brands and products that offer superior quality and better value compared to EssilorLuxottica. You are of course free to make your own choices and spend your money how you wish. I vote for “quiet luxury” over flashy (but trashy quality) designer logos.Â
The video below, by the Spectacle Factory (YouTube channel link), is a MUST watch to understand why EssilorLuxottica brands are a very poor choice, and provides you a number of much better brand options, like Hugo Boss or Gucci. Robert also highlights a number of brands by Safilo that are good quality.Â
Frame Terminology
To establish a common understanding, let’s begin by defining several key terms related to eyewear frames:
- Frame: The frame is the structural component of your glasses that holds the lenses in place and is the most visible part of your eyewear. It plays a crucial role in the overall aesthetic and fit of your glasses.
- Lenses: Lenses are the most critical component of your eyewear, as they are entirely responsible for your vision quality. With a wide array of lens types and designs available, selecting the appropriate lens is the most significant decision you will make regarding your eyewear.
- Nose Pads: Some glasses feature nose pads, which provide adjustability and can help achieve a better fit. However, they may also create pressure points, depending on the design and material.
- Temples: The temples, or arms, extend from the front of your glasses to grip your head or ears. They typically range in length from 120mm to 160mm, contributing to the stability and comfort of your eyewear.
- Bridge: The bridge is the part of the frame that rests over your nose and connects the two lenses. Its design affects both the fit and comfort of the glasses on your face.
- A Size: This is the width, from left to right, of each lens. Generally from 40-62mm.Â
- B Size: The vertical height of the lens.
- DBL: Distance Between Lenses – It refers to the measurement of the bridge width on a pair of glasses, which is the space between the two lenses.
When looking at the temples on a pair of glasses and you see three numbers they are generally: A size, bridge size and temple size.Â
Understanding these components is essential for making informed decisions about your eyewear, ensuring both functionality and style meet your personal needs.
Frame Materials
There is a wide range of materials used for eyewear frames, and the quality ranges from literally toy quality plastic, to high end quality luxury materials that will stand the test of time. Some of the options in the market include (not exhaustive):
- Injection Plastic
- Nylon
- Acetate
- Titanium
- Beta Titanium
- Stainless Steel
- Wood
- Leather
- Stone
- Buffalo Horn
- Precious Metals (Gold, Platinum)
When geeking out about common premium frame materials, acetate and titanium will be at the top of the list. Some very innovative and premium brands like Lucas de Stael do amazing hand-made frames in wood, leather and stone (yes, stone).Â
Right off the bat if you want quality eyewear, you can cross off injection plastic and nylon. These are the cheapest and junk worthy materials. As I mentioned before, brands like Ray-Ban have many models exceeding USD $200 that use injection plastic or nylon. That’s about all you need to know about that brand to completely avoid them. Total trash! And do you know the manufacturing cost of those Ray-Ban nylon frames? About USD $10, yet you are paying 20x for the finished product. You should feel ripped off. Â
Out of all the above frame materials, I’ll just cover the two most popular in luxury eyewear: cellulose acetate and titanium. All of my personal eyewear is made from these two materials.Â
Cellulose Acetate
Acetate, also known as zyl or zylonite, is a popular material used in high-quality designer eyewear. Made from renewable resources like wood pulp and natural cotton fibers, acetate is valued for its lightweight and strong properties while maintaining flexibility and a glass-like clarity. It offers a wide variety of finishes, including high luster polish and matte, making it both environmentally friendly and adjustable by opticians for a perfect fit.
However, the quality of acetate can vary significantly. Higher quality acetate provides better gloss and transparency. The best acetate manufacturers are in Japan and Italy, with Japanese acetate widely considered the finest. The production process for Japanese acetate is extensive, requiring about two months for extrusion and four months for drying. The intricate patterns and colors are achieved through a lamination process, which involves stacking multiple blocks of acetate and can take up to eight weeks.
Producing high-quality acetate is both time-consuming and costly. Italian acetate, while still good, is slightly softer than Japanese acetate and may lose its luster more quickly. Japanese acetate retains up to 98% of its moisture over time, while Italian or Chinese acetate can lose up to 10%, which is significantly more. Once the acetate is ready, premium brands may take over a month to hand-finish the frames to achieve polished perfection.
Bottom Line:Â If you want the very best acetate frames, shop for frames that are handmade and use Japanese acetate. Italian acetate, while not quite as good, is a close second. Acetate from other regions, such as China, should be avoided if you want the very best.
Titanium
Three types of titanium are commonly used in eyewear frames: commercially pure titanium, beta titanium, and memory metal. The first titanium frames introduced to the market were made from pure titanium and were well-received. Following their success, beta titanium and memory metal frames were developed.
Beta Titanium is an alloy primarily composed of titanium, with added vanadium and aluminum to enhance strength and toughness. This alloy’s high strength-to-modulus ratio provides excellent elasticity, making the frames stable during prolonged periods of intense activity. Beta titanium frames are known for being strong, durable, lightweight, flexible, hypoallergenic, and resistant to corrosion.
Japanese titanium is particularly esteemed in the eyewear industry for its exceptional quality and craftsmanship. Japan is known for its meticulous attention to detail and cutting-edge technology. The country enforces strict quality controls to maintain high standards, carefully optimizing alloys for strength, flexibility, and light weight.
Bottom Line: If you want the very best lightweight frames, look for handmade frames using Japanese beta titanium. For the absolutely highest quality, source frames handmade in Japan from Japanese beta titanium.Â
Frame Brands - Quiet Luxury vs. Trash
As previously mentioned, the king of POOR eyewear quality is the mega corp EssilorLuxottica. They outright own the following brands:Â
Ray-Ban, Oakley, Persol, Oliver Peoples, Vogue Eyewear, Arnette, Alain Mikli, Costa, Bliz, Native Eyewear and Bolon.Â
They also hold the license to produce poor quality eyewear under the following brands:
Giorgio Armani, Brunello Cucinelli, Burberry, Chanel, Coach, Dolce&Gabbana, Ferrari, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Moncler, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Starck Biotech Paris, Swarovski, Tiffany & Co., Tory Burch and Versace.
Bottom line: RUN away from any of the above brands. Unfortunately eyewear brands can and do frequently change hands. Independent and high quality brands are getting more and more scarce. For example, in 2023 Barton Perreira was acquired by Thelios. Apparently, that acquisition hasn’t gone well and is starting to ruin the BP brand that was so amazing just a year ago.Â
I still love my Barton Perreira Domino frames, but will avoid the brand in the future. Before you buy your next pair of expensive frames, check if the brand has changed hands and got vacuumed up by some uncaring, profit driven, low quality, megacorp like EssilorLuxxotica.Â
The Epitome of Trash
The USD $220Â Ray-Ban New Wayfarer Classic sunglasses, are made from cheap injection molded plastic. This is trash bin quality, and has a manufacturing cost around $10 USD. And for USD $220? Monumental ripoff. Yet if you look on the streets at how many people wear Ray-Ban, you will see them everywhere. But that’s like McDonalds…they are everywhere, but their food is trash. Same for Ray-Ban. To be fair, some other models Ray-Ban sells are acetate, but the brand as a whole has severely tanked since their glory days. Avoid like the plague!Â
Quiet luxury – Wisely Spending Your Money
Watch the short tongue-in-cheek video below by Robert for a good laugh, but at the same time, gets his point across about a flashy logo vs. actual quality. I personally own two of the brands he covers in this video: Reykjavik Eyes and Barton Perreira.Â
If you are in the market for top tier sunglasses, Robert made a video in 2024 ranking a number of eyewear brands. I suggest watching the whole video, but if you are short on time, here’s a list of his “perfection” tier: McLaren, Cazal, Cartier, Out of, Jacques Marie Mage, Barton Perreira, Masunaga, Mykita, Porsche Design, Tavat.Â
Although mostly used for optical glasses, I would add Reykjavik Eyes to the list. Robert made me a pair of custom Alba rimless sunglasses which look absolutely stunning. But more on that later. Reykjavik Eyes made it on Robert’s Ultimate tier optical list, though.Â
If you are in the market for optical eyewear, Robert has a video for that too. His “Ultimate” tier includes: J.F. Rey, Flair, Chrome Hearts, McLaren, Jacques Marie Mage, Cartier, Barton Perreira, Cazal, Reykjavik Eyes, l.a. Eyeworks, and Lucas de Stael. I have a pair of l.a. Eyeworks frames, which are of very high quality and held up exceptionally well with daily use.
Best Acetate Frames in the World
Robert has an excellent video explaining the differences in the various qualities of acetate, and what to look for when buying acetate frames. As one example he compares the EssilorLuxxotica Chanel acetate (poor quality) to the acetate found in other premium brands (like Barton Perreira). While Chanel handbags may some of the best in the world, unfortunately their eyewear is nowhere remotely the best. Watch Robert’s video to find out why. I personally own a pair of the Barton Perreira Domino in Olive Green.Â
Spoiler: The best acetate frames in the world are partially or fully hand made and not mass produced. The attention to detail that only a human can provide results in the very best frames.
C Tier: EssilorLuxxotica, Marcolin, Tom Ford, Prada, Ray-Ban, Chanel, Jimmy Choo, Tiffany & Co., Safilo Group, etc. Basically all mass produced frames.
B Tier: Gast, Walter and Berbert, Gucci, Oliver Peoples, Chloe, Hugo Boss, Eco, Cartier, Moscot. These are good quality frames and probably in the USD $200-$300 range.Â
A Tier: Barton Perreira, Robert la Roche, l.a. Eyeworks, Akoni, FaceAFace, Portrait, Blake Kuwahara, Jacques Marie Mage. These frames are generally in the USD $400+ category. Â
Best Titanium Frames in the World
Check out Robert’s video below for two of the best Titanium frame brands in the world: Reykjavik Eyes, and Masunaga. Masunaga is a legendary Japanese eyewear brand that literally defined the essence of meticulous Japanese craftsmanship which is still the best in the world.Â
Reykjavik Eyes were the first brand in the world to produce eyewear laser cut from a single sheet of beta titanium, and have no hinges, springs, or solder joints to fail. One could argue they are the lightest and most comfortable eyewear money can buy. I can’t say enough good things about my three pairs of Reykjavik Eyes frames.
In the top video Robert briefly shows the Reykjavik Eyes Alba with his custom lens shape in a grey gradient tint. I have the same pair, and they are hands down my favorite sunglasses glasses ever.Â
Robert has another video dedicated to Reykjavik Eyes, which are among the best titanium frames in the world. I loved my first pair of Reykjavik Eyes so much I got two more pairs. They are virtually weightless, super strong, and very durable. I have Runar, Alba (with custom lens shape), and Elias. More on those later!
Here’s another video extolling the virtues of Reykjavik Eyes and their craftsmanship. Around the 10:00 minute mark Robert describes their proprietary painting process, which results in virtually no chipping. Before I did my eyewear research I got a pair of Tom Davies titanium frames. After a year I noticed a number of paint chips.Â
Here’s a close up of my Tom Davies frames which I wore for a year. There are numerous little paint chips on the frames, including several not shown below. I’ve had my Reykjavik Eyes Elias frames for over a year and there are ZERO chips anywhere on the frame. Daily usage for both pairs was the same. I wasted my money on Tom Davies before I knew about Reykjavik Eyes. More on that later!
Summary
In conclusion, choosing the right eyewear involves understanding the eyewear brands and materials used in frames. Acetate and titanium are popular for their quality and durability. Japanese acetate is prized for its superior gloss and transparency, while beta titanium, an alloy with vanadium and aluminum, offers strength and flexibility. Japanese titanium is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship and quality.Â
When it comes to shopping for eyewear brands, stay far, far, away from anything in the EssilorLuxottica family. EssilorLuxottica pushes down eyewear quality, jacks up prices, and maximizes company profits. Brands such as Ray-Ban, Oakey, Chanel, Coach, D&G, are all way overpriced and VERY poor (trash) quality. Focus your attention on top independent eyewear brands like l.a. Eyeworks, Reykjavik Eyes, Masunaga, McLaren, and Cartier.Â
Next up in part 2 is Geek Chic Eyewear: Understanding Lens Materials and Designs. I will cover lens materials, lens design, lens tints and treatments, lens coatings, and more! Stay tuned for Part 2.Â
Very informative post. Wish I found this earlier, could have saved myself a lot of time haha. I actually stumbled upon this at the end of my extensive research to find the best frames and lenses and reached a similar conclusion as you. Looking forward to see your collection in Part 4!
Thanks! Took a ton of research and time to write, so glad you found it valuable.